Behold.. a Christmas Crochet Stocking. Beautiful. Classic. Fast and fun to make. It might just be your next favorite holiday crochet make!
This crochet stocking reminds me of my earliest memories of childhood Christmases. Only better.
In the 1970s version of my childhood, our family stockings were mass produced red stockings with oh-so-cheap white fur cuffs. Onto this cuff, my mother wrote our names with glue and then sprinkled glitter on top of that. If you squinted just right, they looked somewhat festive hung on our fireplace mantle.
To be honest, our family has a bit of an identity crisis with the whole stocking tradition anyway. In our heritage, St. Nicholas comes on December 6th in the wee hours to fill shoes left outside our bedroom doors. However, as we all know, the stocking routine happens in the wee hours between the 24th and 25th. And really.. does the big man make an appearance twice in the same month? Maybe? I’m not sure.
In any case.. between the glitter craziness and the identity crisis, I suppose it’s no wonder I’ve spent most of my entire adult life quietly searching for THE Christmas stocking. I’ve made quite a few but I’m a bit smitten with this brand new crochet stocking.
MORE HOLIDAY PATTERNS
If you love the Crochet Stocking Pattern, you might also like to check out these other patterns for the season:
1. Snowman // 2. Easy Crochet Star // 3. Snowman Wine Cozy
Crochet Stocking Pattern
There’s so much to love about this Classic Christmas Crochet Stocking. The classic red makes my heart sing. And that furry bit… every time I see it, I can’t HELP but dig my fingers into it’s squishy goodness. So delightful.
The main part of the stocking is crocheted with Lion Brand’s Color Made Easy, which is a #5 Bulky yarn. It’s the same yarn you know and love from the popular Ribbed Wonder Hat pattern. The stocking starts with the red yarn at the top down to the heel. Then things get a bit interesting as we make a heel flap on half the stitches, turn the heel and start working on all the stitches again. Once the stocking is made, crochet a hanger and a fur cuff. Then sew them both to the stocking and you’re done!
The heel on the crochet stocking can be a little tricky which is why I’m rating this an advanced pattern. My best advice here is to carefully read through the heel instructions and the photos to make sure you feel confident before starting. The actual stitches used in the stocking are very basic and because its a bulky weight yarn, the stocking is a very fast make!
Purchase an ad-free printable version of the Crochet Stocking Pattern Here
Crochet Stocking
Here is what you will need:
- US K 10.5/6.5mm crochet hook
- US L 11/8mm crochet hook
- 4.5 oz Bulky Weight yarn, sample used Lion Brand’s Color Made Easy in Crimson color
- 1 oz Super Bulky Weight Faux Fur yarn, sample used Lion Brand’s Go for Faux in Baked Alaska color
- Tapestry needle and scissors
Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern: Crochet Abbreviations, US to UK Crochet Conversion Chart. Find links to stitches on the “Tutorial” menu: Getting Started will show basic stitches used in many patterns and Crochet Stitch Dictionary shows our growing collection of crochet stitch tutorials.
Finished crochet stocking is approximately 17″ tall from top of cuff to bottom of toe and 6″ across when stocking is laid flat.
Crochet Stocking:
With red yarn and K hook, chain 32. Join with a slip stitch to first chain, without twisting so that the chain is in one large loop. This will be the top edge of the stocking.
Note that every row until the heel is joined with a slip stitch, then turned to work the next row. The joining point will become the center back of the stocking.
R1-29: ch 1, sc across. Slip stitch to top of first sc and turn. (32 st)
At the end of the 29th row, fasten off, leaving a long strand for weaving in.
Heel Flap:
Note: The crochet stocking is worked in one solid color. To illustrate the heel portion, I’m using two different colors of yarn for the heel and the main part of the stocking to make it easier to understand.
The heel flap is worked back and forth on half the stitches. Note that the center back will be in the center of the heel flap.
As you work the stocking, be mindful that every row needs to turn so that the single crochet pattern is consistent through the whole stocking.
To attach yarn for the heel flap, turn work as if starting a new row (wrong side of work will be facing). Then attach yarn with a slip stitch 8 stitches to the right of the center back.
R30-35: ch 1, sc across 16 stitches. turn (16 st)
Turn Heel:
In this section we make “short rows”, which means at first we don’t work across ALL the center stitches and then in subsequent rows we move a little closer to the edges of the work each row. This creates the heel “cup”.
R36: ch1, sc in next 10 st, sc 2 tog, sc in next stitch, leave remaining 3 stitches unworked. Turn
R37: ch 1, sc in next 6 st, sc 2 tog, sc in next st. This leaves the 3 stitches at the opposite end unworked. Turn.
R38: ch 1, sc in next 7 st, sc 2 tog, sc in next st. Turn.
Let’s take a closer look at the decreases in this section. Note that in this row, the 7th single crochet is worked in the stitch just before the “ledge” created by the previous row:
Then the decrease is worked over that last stitch and then the NEXT stitch below the edge as shown below. This creates an angle:
R39: ch 1, sc in next 8 st, sc 2 tog, sc in next st. Turn.
R40: ch 1, sc in next 9 st, sc 2 tog.Turn.
R41: ch 1, sc in next 9 st, sc 2 tog.Turn.
At the end of this section, the heel is done and there is a “cup” shape. Next we’ll crochet over the stitches all around the stocking and do some decrease rounds in the instep area before we get to the foot.
Crochet Instep:
Fasten off yarn and re-attach at center back. Note that in the next round we work on all the stitches around the finished heel and the body of the stocking. Then we will decrease on either side until the stocking body stitches are the same as they were before the heel was started.
R42: With wrong side facing and with yarn joined at the center back, ch 1, sc in each of the next 5 stitches on back of heel. Sc 7 stitches across side of heel flap.
Place a marker at the corner.
Sc across the stitches in the body of the stocking. Sc 7 stitches across the other side of the heel flap. Place a marker at the 2ndcorner. Then sc across the last 5 stitches on the back of the heel. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc in the row and turn. (40 st)
Note for the next decrease rounds: markers are used to designate the corner stitch. In the decrease rounds, (sc 2 tog) over the 2 corner stitches that make up the corner. Replace the marker for the subsequent round.
R43: ch 1, sc across to next marker, (sc 2 tog), sc to next marker (sc 2 tog), sc across to end of row. Turn (38 St)
R44: ch 1, sc across to next marker, (sc 2 tog), sc to next marker (sc 2 tog), sc across to end of row. Turn (36 St)
R45: ch 1, sc across to next marker, (sc 2 tog), sc to next marker (sc 2 tog), sc across to end of row. Turn (34 St)
R46: ch 1, sc across to next marker, (sc 2 tog), sc to next marker (sc 2 tog), sc across to end of row. Turn (32 St)
Foot of Crochet Stocking:
Now the stocking has the same number of stitches as it did before the heel. Remove markers.
R47-58: ch 1, sc across row, join with sl st to first st. Turn. (32 st)
R59: Ch 1, sc in next 6 st, sc 2 tog. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first st. Turn. (28 st)
R60: Ch 1, sc in next 5 st, sc 2 tog. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first st. Turn. (24 st)
R61: Ch 1, sc in next 4 st, sc 2 tog. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first st. Turn. (20 st)
R62: Ch 1, sc in next 3 st, sc 2 tog. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first st. Turn. (16 st)
R63: Ch 1, sc in next 2 st, sc 2 tog. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first st. Turn. (12 st)
Fasten off, leaving a long strand for sewing. Then thread strand into a yarn needle and weave through the tops of the stitches and cinch closed. Weave in ends, knotting off if necessary, on the inside of work so that the toe of the stocking stays closed. Then weave in any remaining ends.
Fur Cuff:
The cuff is worked flat, in rows and then seamed and sewn to the top of the stocking.
Using the fur yarn and a L hook, ch 8
R1: sc in 2nd chain and across. Turn. (7 st)
R2: ch 1, sc across, ch 1 and turn (7 st).
Repeat row 2 until fur strip is long enough to cover top of stocking. Fasten off, leaving a long strand for joining. Sew 2 ends together to form a large loop (or cuff) of fur. Then slide the fur over the top edge of stocking, lining up the top edge of the stocking to the top edge of the fur edge. Using stocking color yarn, carefully sew fur to top edge of stocking using a whip stitch. Make sure to work under a loop of the stich of the fur and be careful the stitches do not show through the fur.
Hanging Loop:
With red yarn and K hook, chain 18.
R1: working in the back bumps of chain only, sc in the 2nd chain from hook and across. Fasten off and sew ends together. Then sew in place at the center back of stocking.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Sigh! Isn’t your Classic Christmas Crochet Stocking just lovely? Enjoy the squishy goodness, hang from your mantle and maybe something special will appear!
Purchase an ad-free printable version of the Crochet Stocking Pattern Here
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Love, love ,love this pattern and your demonstration in different colored yarn. I was just wondering if the cuff could be made with a regular yarn instead of the fur yarn, because I have a difficult time being able to see so I have avoided fur yarn. ( The fur yarn on the stocking is beautiful, though) Like what yarn could I substitute and still use this pattern? Your patterns are sooo nicely written!
The fur yarn can be challenging to work with. I cannot see it either. I FEEL where the stitches are. And for this particular pattern, because there are so few stitches in a row, I feel like it’s not so daunting… you may want to try it and see if you can get ‘ok’ with feeling your way through the stitches instead of actually seeing them. If you’re going to try with another yarn, you could either just add some rows to start in a contrasting color and flip it over (like you might do for a brim of a hat). Or if you want to work side to side, you could just chain to the length you want the depth of the cuff to be, then keep working until you can wrap your piece around the stocking and then stitch it down.