Oh be still my little Halloween heart. I’m completely smitten with this adorable crochet witch!
Meet my latest make: Sami. She’s the latest in my Tamingo series of little crochet amigurumi.
What’s a Tamingo you might ask? Good question! The word “Tamingo” is a made up word. It was my son’s mispronunciation of the word “Flamingo” when he was a young boy. But it’s too darn cute NOT to be in our everyday vocabulary, right? A Tamingo is a small crocheted friend. These cute crochet dolls are a mere 6.5″ tall. They are perfect for clutching in a little one’s hand. Also they look adorable in your home or office. No crochet judgement zone here.
We started the Tamingo Series with Rachel and now Sami, this little crochet witch has stolen my heart! Isn’t she just about the sweetest thing ever? I’m loving all the berry shades of goodness with just a tad of black.. which is respectable for every little witch doll, I think.
When I was a young girl, my absolute favorite TV show of all time was Bewitched. Our heroine had a serious problem: trying to reign in her clever and efficient witchy tendencies to accommodate her human husband. But she often couldn’t help herself and with a twitch of her nose the magic would happen.
A few years ago, I bought the entire series on DVD and prepared myself for a charming walk down memory lane. I’m going to be honest right here and say that while I still love our heroine, my older, wiser self is glad we do a better job these days of encouraging young girls to be their true selves rather than conforming to a societal norm. I also realized that sometimes memories are best when they stay in the past.. with only the good, warm, fond things flickering there.
So with a nod to my favorite witch, I thought I’d give my little amigurumi crochet witch a more modern, fun name, suitable to her cute self. I’m calling her Sami and oh man.. .am I ever smitten with this cutie!
She’s such a fun make! Some clever color changes on her body form the base of her dress and panties. Then a quick skirt worked in the front loops of a row make for a fun and full skirt. If you’re looking for a removable dress, you might try making some adjustments to Rachel’s body & dress instead. This is what I love about this Tamingo series, so many interchangeable elements!
And let’s talk about this adorable crochet witch hat, shall we?
Seriously.. I think this crochet witch hat could be a THING all by itself. Isn’t it the cutest? Fast and fun, it’s worked in one color with a little chain in a contrasting color for the hat bad. So, so cute! You could permanently attach the hat to little Miss Sami, I suppose. But I kinda love her pink/purple hair too much to tack the hat down. Sigh.
If you’re looking to learn how to make the best amigurumi, be sure to check out my Amigurumi: A Beginner’s Guide. It’s a massive 165 page ebook of detailed tutorials, tips and tricks (plus exclusive patterns). You can read about that right here.
Let’s get started on crocheting Sami, the adorable crochet witch in our Tamingo series…
Purchase an ad-free printable version of Sami ~ Crochet Witch Tamingo Pattern Here
Crochet Witch
Here is what you will need:
- US G 6/4.0 mm crochet hook.
- Worsted Weight yarn
- Main: 1 oz, sample used Vanna’s Choice in Beige
- Hair: 3/4 oz, sample used Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn in Hot Orchid
- Dress: 1 oz, sample used Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn in Mixed Berry
- Shoes & Hat: 1 oz, sample used Vanna’s Choice in Black
- Fiberfill
- Tapestry needle and scissors
Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern: Crochet Abbreviations, US to UK Crochet Conversion Chart. Find links to stitches on the “Tutorial” menu: Getting Started will show basic stitches used in many patterns and Crochet Stitch Dictionary shows our growing collection of crochet stitch tutorials.
Gauge is not important in this pattern. You may use other weights of yarn. Adjust hook size to fit your needs. With the yarn and hook size given, gauge is about 4 single crochet stitches to an inch.
Finished doll is approximately 6.5″ tall from top of head (without hat) to bottom of feet.
Head:
With Main Color yarn, make a magic ring
R1: 6 sc into ring (6 sts). (Do not join, worked in rounds)
R2: 2 sc in ea st (12 st)
R3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (18 st)
R4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (24 st)
R5: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (30 st)
R6-11: sc around. (30 st)
R12: *sc in next 3 st, sc2tog. Repeat from * around (24 st) Begin stuffing head
R13: *sc in next 2 st, sc2tog. Repeat from * around (18 st)
Insert safety eyes between rows 8 and 9, leaving 3 stitches in between the eyes. Adjust stuffing and stuff the remainder of the head.
R14: *sc in next st, sc2tog. Repeat from * around (12 st). Fasten off leaving a long strand for sewing.
Note on Limb and Body construction: The legs are worked separately and then joined together in the first row of the body. The body is worked to the neck and fastened off. Then the arms are worked and the pieces are sewn together. Please follow the instructions carefully for stuffing and fastening off notes. There is a detailed photo tutorial in the Amigurumi Beginners Guide if you would like more detailed instructions on how to work this method of leg to body construction.
Legs (Make 2):
With Shoe Color, make a magic ring
R1: 6 sc into ring (6 sts). (Do not join, worked in rounds)
R2: 2 sc in ea st (12 st)
R3: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (15st)
R4: sc around
R5: *sc in next 3 st, sc2tog. Repeat from * around. Change to Main Body Color in last stitch (12 st).
R6: sc in next 3 st, [(sc2 tog) three times], sc in last 3 st (9 st). Stuff the feet.
R7-9: sc around (9 st), changing to Dress Color yarn in last stitch.
R10: sc around (9 st), Fasten off for first leg. After 2nd leg, do not fasten off, continue to body below. Stuff the rest of the legs.
Body:
In the next row, the legs are crocheted together and form the bottom of the body. Position the legs so that they are in the correct position with both feet facing forward. Use a stitch marker to mark where they meet in the middle. This stitch marker holds the center stitch from each leg to each other. Also make sure that you also have a stitch marker in the last stitch worked in the leg just completed. This stitch will be the last stitch worked in this row.
R1: Continuing with dress color yarn, sc in the next stitch of the leg just worked. Continue to single crochet in each stitch until you reach the marker holding the 2 legs together. Work a single crochet in the next stitch (which is the stitch holding the legs together). THEN work a single crochet in the matching stitch on the OTHER leg. You can remove the stitch marker if you’d like. Continue to single crochet all the way around the other leg (9 stitches on that leg). You are now at the middle of the doll on the opposite side. Single crochet in the remaining unworked stitches on the first leg worked in this row, finishing in the stitch you marked as the end of the row. Count your stitches for this row. There should be 18 stitches in the row. If you have more or less than this, take a look at the stitches worked at the joining points and see if you’ve missed or worked an extra stitch here.
R2: Continuing to work in the round, *sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (24 st)
R3-5: sc around. (24 st)
The next round ONLY is worked through the back loops as follows:
R6: Work this round in the Back Loop Only: *sc in next 2 st, sc2tog. Repeat from * around (18 st)
R7-8: Working through both loops again, sc around (18 st). Stuff body.
R9: *sc in next st, sc2tog. Repeat from * around (12 st).
R10: sc around (12 st). Fasten off leaving a long strand for joining. Stuff the body.
Skirt:
Hold body, feet side up with the back of doll facing. Attach dress color yarn with a slip stitch to a front loop on row 6 of the body.
R1: ch1 and sc in same stitch as joining, 2 sc in next front loop, *sc in next front loop, 2sc in next front loop. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st to top of 1st sc in round. (36 st)
R2-3: ch 1, sc in same stitch as joining, sc around. Join with sl st to top of 1st sc in round. (36 st)
R4: *ch 3, skip next st, sl st in next. Repeat from * around, slip stitching at base of starting ch 3 in round to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Arms (Make 2):
With Main Color yarn, make a magic ring
R1: 6 sc into ring (6 sts). (Do not join, worked in rounds)
R2: 2 sc in ea st (12 st)
R3-5: sc around (12 st).
R6: *sc in next st, (sc2 tog, repeat from * around (8 st). Lightly stuff hand
R7-9: sc around
Leave remainder of arm unstuffed.
Crochet Witch Body Assembly:
Using yarn from ends of work, sew head to body. Sew arms to sides near the neckline.
Hair Wig:
It’s important to work the steps for the hair in the correct order. First crochet the wig cap. Then cut and attach hair strands for the braids to the wig cap. Next sew the entire wig cap to the doll’s head. Finally, the hair strands are braided and the bangs are embroidered on.
With Hair Color yarn, make a magic ring
R1: 6 sc into ring (6 sts). (Do not join, worked in rounds)
R2: 2 sc in ea st (12 st)
R3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (18 st)
R4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (24 st)
R5: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (30 st)
R6-10: sc around (30 st). Join with slip stitch to next stitch. Fasten off leaving a long strand for sewing.
Pigtail Braids:
Cut 20 pieces of yarn, each approximately 11” long. I used the short end of a notebook to wrap yarn for the strands. The strands will be cut after hair is attached and braided so it’s ok if your strands are a little longer than this to start, but they should be at least 11” long.
Fold each strand in half and attach one strand to each stitch on the sides and back of the wig cap. (Note: you will still have the long strand from fastening off the wig cap which you will be using later to attach the wig cap to the head; just work around this as best you can in this step).
Use the hook to pull the folded end of each strand through each stitch, making a small loop, then pull the cut ends through the loop and tighten. Repeat to place a strand in each of the 20 stitches around the sides and back of the wig cap.
Place hair (wig) on head of doll, and adjust. The bottom of the wig should sit approximately between rows 11 &12 of the head at the back of the neck. Sew carefully, being careful not to catch the loose hair strands and do not pull stitches too tightly so that wig sits on head and is not noticeably sewn down.
Then divide the strands of hair in half and braid each side to a pleasing length. Use a scrap piece of hair color yarn to tie the hair in place. Cut the remaining strands of hair so that the ends of the braid are even.
Hair Ties (Make 2):
Cut a long strand of dress color yarn. Carefully tie a bow. Then double knot the bow so the hair tie stays in place. Trim the loose ends of the yarn so that the bow and tie look appropriately sized.
Add Bangs:
To add bands, thread tapestry needle with yarn, sewing several stitches to each side of center front as shown. Finish with 1 or 2 short stitches to simulate a part in the bangs at the center front.
Facial Features:
With Main Color yarn, work 3-4 stitches to form nose. Work over 2 or so stitches centered between the eyes, starting approximately between rows 8-9 of head and working downward.
Use a scrap of pink color floss or yarn to stitch a smile a few rows beneath the nose, referring to photo. First stitch the horizontal portion of mouth about 1.5-2 stitches below bottom of nose. Then make one stitch on each side of line slanting up and out to form smile.
Crochet Witch Hat:
With Hat Color yarn, make a magic ring
R1: 3 sc into ring (3 sts). (Do not join, worked in rounds)
R2: 2 sc in ea st (6 st)
R3: sc around (6 st)
R4: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (9 st)
R5: sc around (9 st)
R6: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (12 st)
R7: sc around (12 st)
R8: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (15 st)
R9: sc around (15 st)
R10: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (18 st)
R11: sc around (18 st)
R12: *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (21 st)
R13: sc around (21 st)
R14: *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (24 st)
R15: sc around (24 st)
R16: *sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (27 st)
R17: sc around (27 st)
R18: *sc in next 8 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (30 st)
R19: sc around (30 st)
R20: *sc in next 9 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (33 st)
R21: sc around (33 st)
R22: *sc in next 10 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (36 st)
R23: sc around (36 st)
R24: *sc in next 11 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (39 st)
R25: sc around (39 st)
R26: *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next, sc in next 6 st, 2sc in next. Repeat from * around. (45 st)
R27: *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next, sc in next 7 st, 2sc in next. Repeat from * around. (51 st)
R28: *sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next, sc in next 8 st, 2sc in next. Repeat from * around. (57 st)
R29: *sc in next 8 st, 2 sc in next, sc in next 9 st, 2sc in next. Repeat from * around. (63st). At end of round, sl st to next st and fasten off. Weave in ends.
Crochet Witch Hat Band:
With Dress Color yarn, chain 39. Fasten off and position on hat just above brim. Sew in place, taking care to line up starting and ending points of chain to form a continuous strip of color.
Purchase an ad-free printable version of Sami ~ Crochet Witch Tamingo Pattern Here
I love seeing your finished projects! If you enjoyed making this Crochet Witch Pattern I’d love to see yours on Instagram, be sure to tag me @crochet365knittoo. If you are on Facebook, stop over to the Crochet 365 Knit Too Facebook page or pop over to the Crochet365KnitToo Club and share a photo! I’d love to see your work!
Absolutely adorable! Thank you for sharing the pattern.
Thia little witch is so cute, thank you so much, can’t wait to make her
Your Tamingos are adorable!!!!! I love your blog!
Yes. Yes. Yes. Sweetest Girl. The Sunny and Warm Smile makes her Snazzy!!!
She is very pretty! The purple is the perfect color.