Laurel: A Delightful Crochet Doll

Meet Laurel, your new favorite crochet doll pattern!

This adorable crochet doll pattern is a delight for your hook. Complete instructions with photos make this project a fun make!

This doll was a long time in the making. I created several versions in my design process to get a doll with the perfect proportions, a cute head shape, fun hair and outfit.

She’s constructed with a crocheted neck support system to minimize the neck flop that sometimes happens with crochet dolls. And she has an easy leg joining method that I think is just perfection! In fact, I added a section to my Joining Amigurumi Limbs post to include this leg join variation.

You can check out my Amigurumi Ebook to perfect even more Amigurumi Techniques:

This darling doll pattern isn’t a quick project, but it is well worth the crochet effort in a few evenings. It is so fun watching a crochet doll come together! Her hair is a bit similar to my Rachel doll. In fact the two would make a cute Mommy and Me doll set!

I’m so excited.. so let’s dive in!

Crochet Laurel Doll

Materials

• Worsted Weight yarn
  • Main (Skin Tone): 2 oz, sample used Paintbox Aran in Light Caramel (Col 208)
  • Hair:  1 oz, sample used Paintbox Aran in Coffee Bean (Col 210)
  • Dress:  ½ oz, sample used Paintbox Aran in Raspberry Pink (Col 243)
  • White (Optional):  You may substitute white yarn to crochet in panties as described in the Limb and Body Construction section that follows
• US G 6/4.0 mm crochet hook (these are my favorite hooks)
• 12 mm Black Safety Eyes 
• (2) Small ¼” or 5/8” buttons for dress
• Stitch markers to keep track of rows
• Fiberfill
• Tapestry Needle
• Sewing Needle and Thread (to sew button)

Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern: Crochet Abbreviations, US to UK Crochet Conversion Chart.  Find links to stitches on the “Tutorial” menu: Getting Started will show basic stitches used in many patterns and Crochet Stitch Dictionary shows our growing collection of crochet stitch tutorials.  I really like to use the invisible seamless join when finishing pieces that get sewn together.

Gauge:

With the yarn and hook size given, my gauge is about 5 single crochet stitches to an inch.  

Resources and crochet tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern: Crochet Abbreviations, US to UK Crochet Conversion Chart.  Find links to stitches and basic crochet skills on the “Tutorial” menu: Getting Started will show basic stitches such as the slip stitch, single crochet, double crochet stitch and chain stitch used in many patterns and Crochet Stitch Dictionary shows our growing collection of crochet stitch tutorials.

Crochet Abbreviations:

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• st = stitch(es)
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (recommend invisible decrease; see below)
• sc3tog = single crochet 3 together (see special stitches below)

Special Stitches

Invisible Decrease: Insert the hook into the front loop only of the next stitch

Then place the hook into the front loop of the next stitch.  Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on the hook.  There are now 2 stitches on the hook. Yarn over again and pull the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook.  Single Crochet Invisible Decrease made.   For the best finish, use the invisible decrease method every time a decrease is indicated in this pattern.

Sc 3 Tog:  *Insert hook into next stitch and pull up a loop. Repeat from * 2 more times (4 loops on hook).  Yarn over and pull through all loops.  Work this stitch carefully and tightly to minimize any gaps in the crochet.

Note:  Use a stitch marker to mark the last stitch of each round as you work, moving the stitch marker as you work each round.

Note on Body and Limb Construction

The legs are worked separately and then joined together in the first row of the body.  You can check out the variation listed on my Amigurumi Limb Joining Post for a photo tutorial (or if you purchase the ad-free PDF, the photo tutorial is included with the pattern).

The body is worked to the neck.  At the neckline, we work into the back look (leaving the front loops free) and continue to form a small tube.  This tube is stuffed to reinforce the neck.

This part is fastened off, then a new strand of yarn is joined in the free loops at the neck and the head is worked upward around the reinforcement stuffed tube.  You’ll continue to crochet the head, stuffing as you go, pausing to insert the safety eyes.  The head is finished at the top and fastened off.

Then the arms are worked and sewn in place and the nose embroidered. The hair is crocheted and sewn on.  Please follow the instructions carefully for stuffing and fastening off notes.  

Finished Crochet Doll Size

Approximately 11.5” tall, from top of head to bottom of feet. 

Legs (Make 2)

With Main Color yarn, make a magic ring

R1:  6 sc into ring (6 sts).  (Do not join, worked in rounds)

R2:  2 sc in ea st (12 st)

R3: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next.  Repeat from * around.  (15st)

R4: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next.  Repeat from * around.  (18st)

R5-6: sc around (18 st)

Note:  The decreases in rows 7 and 9 define the top of the foot.  Take care to work these decreases carefully and a bit tighter than normal for the best result. 

R7:  sc in next 4 st, [(sc2tog) 5 times], sc in next 4 st (13 st)

R8:  sc around (13 st).  Begin stuffing leg.

R9:  sc in next 3 st, sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog, sc in next 3 st (9 st)

R10-20: sc around (9 st)  

Stuff the rest of the leg. Fasten off for first leg.  

Repeat for 2^nd leg, but do not fasten off, continue to connect legs as follows:  

Attach Legs and Prepare for Body

You’ve just finished the 2^nd leg and the yarn is still attached.  Pick up the first leg and position the legs so that both feet facing forward. Then use a stitch marker to mark where the two legs meet in the middle. This stitch marker holds the center stitch from each leg to each other.  

Sc in the next stitch of the leg just worked.  Continue to single crochet in each stitch until you reach the marker holding the 2 legs together.  Work a single crochet in the next stitch (which is the stitch holding the legs together).  Chain 2 between the legs.  THEN work a single crochet in the matching stitch on the OTHER leg.

Now remove all other markers and place a marker in the last stitch worked.  This now marks the end of each row.

Continue to body, continuing to work in continuous rounds.

Body

R1:  Single crochet all the way around the leg. When you come to the chain between the legs, sc into each chain, then work a single crochet in the stitches on the other leg until you come to the opposite side of the chain.  Sc into the opposite side of each chain, then sc in the stitch you marked as the end of the row.  Count your stitches for this row.  There should be 22 stitches in the row.  If you have more or less than this, take a look at the stitches worked at the joining points and see if you’ve missed or worked an extra stitch here.

R2:  Continuing to work in the round, *sc in next 10 st, 2sc in next st, repeat from * once  (24 st)

R3-9:  sc around (24 st) 

R10: *sc in next 2 st, sc2tog.  Repeat from * around (18 st)  

R11-13:  sc around (18 st)  Stuff body.  

R14: *sc in next st, sc2tog.  Repeat from * around (12 st). 

R15-16:  sc around (12 st).  

R17: *sc in next st, sc2tog. Repeat from * around (8 st)  Stuff remainder of body.

R18:  sc around through the back loops only.  Note that the head will be crocheted later through the front loops.  

Next, crochet the reinforcement post in the neck as follows:

R19-26: sc around, stuffing firmly as you go (8 st) 

R27:  * sc 2 tog.  Repeat from * around (4 st). Make sure reinforcement post is stuffed firmly, then fasten off, weave around stitches to close. 

The head is worked from the neck up, working in the free loops from R18 of the body as follows:

Head

R1:  Slip stitch to free front loop on body.  Then sc around (8 st).  Continue to work in continuous rounds. 

R2:  sc in next st, 2 sc in ea st (12 st)

R3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next.  Repeat from * around.  (18 st)

R4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next.  Repeat from * around.  (24 st)

R5: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next.  Repeat from * around.  (30 st)

R6:  *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next.  Repeat from * around.  (36 st)

R7:  sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next.  Repeat from * around until last 3 stitches, then sc in next 3 st.  (42 st)

R8-11:  Sc around (42 st) 

R12: *sc in next 5 st, sc2tog.  Repeat from * around (36 st)

R13-16:  Sc around (36 st) 

R17:  *sc in next 4 st, sc2tog.  Repeat from * around (30 st)

R18: *sc in next 3 st, sc2tog.  Repeat from * around (24 st) Begin stuffing head

Insert safety eyes between rows 11 & 12, leaving approximately 5 stitches between eyes, making sure to properly align eyes with body.

R19: *sc in next 2 st, sc2tog.  Repeat from * around (18 st)  

R20: *sc in next st, sc2tog.  Repeat from * around (12 st).

R21:  *sc2tog.  Repeat from * around (6 st). Fasten off leaving a long strand for sewing.

Arms (make 2)

With Main Color yarn, make a magic ring

R1:  6 sc into ring (6 sts).  (Do not join, worked in rounds)

R2:  2 sc in ea st (12 st)  

R3-5: sc around (12 st). 

R6:  *sc in next st, (sc2 tog, repeat from * around (8 st). Lightly stuff hand

R7-17:  sc around 

Leave remainder of arm unstuffed.  Fasten off leaving a long strand for sewing.  Sew top of arms closed.  Sew to body between rows 16 & 17, just below the neck.

Hair Cap

With Hair Color yarn, make a magic ring

R1:  6 sc into ring (6 sts).  (Do not join, worked in rounds)

R2:  2 sc in ea st (12 st)

R3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next.  Repeat from * around.  (18 st)

R4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next.  Repeat from * around.  (24 st)

R5: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next.  Repeat from * around.  (30 st)

R6:  sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next.  Repeat from * around, until 2 stitches remain.  Then sc in last 2 st.  (36 st)

R7-15: sc around (36 st) At end of round, fasten off, leaving a long strand for joining.  Carefully place hair cap on doll’s head and sew down.  

Ringlet Pigtails (Make 2)

With Hair Color yarn,  *Chain 20.  2 sc in 2^nd chain from hook, 2sc in each chain across. At the end of the chain, repeat from * 3 more times to form a total of 4 curly strands.  Fasten off, leaving a long strand.  Thread yarn needle and gather edge to form pigtail.  Then sew to lower back side of head.  

Repeat for 2^nd pigtail.

Bangs

Use a long strand of hair color yarn to sew several stitches for bangs.  Start with short stitches to form the short bangs, then take long stitches along hairline.  Weave in all ends.

Nose

Use a long strand of skin color yarn to sew several stitches for nose.

Doll Dress

With Dress Color yarn, chain 21

R1:  sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 3sc in next ch, *sc in next 4 ch, 3sc in next ch.  Repeat from * twice.  Sc in next 2 ch, ch 3 (forms button loop) and turn (28 st).  Note Row 1 is RIGHT side of work.

R2:  sc in next 4 st, ch 3, skip next 6 st, sc in next 8 st, ch 3, skip next 6 st, sc in last 4 st.  ch1 and turn. (22 st including chain sts)

R3:  sc in next 4 st, sc in next 3 ch, sc in next 8 st, sc in next 3 ch, sc in last 4 st, ch 1 and turn. (22 st)

R4:  Sc across, ch 1 and turn. (22 st)

R5:  Sc across, ch 3 (forms 2^nd button loop) and turn.

R6: 2 hdc in 1^st st, *hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st.  Repeat from * around, ending with a hdc in last stitch.  (33 st)

R7:  ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 9 st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 10 st, 2 dc in next st.  Repeat from * around.  At end of round JOIN with sl st to top of starting chain.  Do NOT turn (work in joined rounds for rest of dress).  (36 st)

R8:  ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 10 st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 11 st, 2 dc in next st.  Repeat from * around.  At end of round JOIN with sl st to top of starting chain. Do NOT turn.  (39 st)

R9:  ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 11 st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 12 st, 2 dc in next st.  Repeat from * around.  At end of round JOIN with sl st to top of starting chain.  Do NOT turn.  (42 st)

R10:  ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 12 st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 13 st, 2 dc in next st.  Repeat from * around.  At end of round JOIN with sl st to top of starting chain.  Do NOT turn. (45 st)

R11:  ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 13 st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 14 st, 2 dc in next st.  Repeat from * around.  At end of round JOIN with sl st to top of starting chain.  Do NOT turn. (48 st)

R12:  *ch 3, skip 1 st, sl st in next st.  Repeat from * around.  Join with sl st to bottom of starting chain in round.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Shoes (Make 2)

With Main Dress Color yarn, chain 5

R1:  2sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 4hdc in next ch, rotate to work on opposite side of chain, sc in next 2 ch, 2sc in last ch (12 st).

R2:  2sc in each of the next 2 st, sc in next 2 st, 2 hdc in next 4 st, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, join with sl st to the 1^st sc of the round (20 st)

R3:  Working in the back loop only this round, ch 1 and sc in the same st, sc around.  Join with a sl st to the 1^stst (20 st)

R4:  ch 1, sc in same st as joining nad in ea st around (20 st)

R5:  ch 2, hdc in next 3 st, sc in next 3 st, (sc 2 tog) 5 times, sc in next 3 st, hdc in last st, join with sl st to the first hdc of round (15 st)

R6:  ch2, hdc in next 3 st, sc in next st, sl st in next 9 st, sc in next st, hdc in last st.  Join with sl st to first hdc of round (15 st).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

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