Boho Boss Granny Square Bag Pattern

The Boho Boss Bag just might be my most favorite granny square bag pattern of all time.  Simple. Fun. Gorgeous!

My friends.. meet a thing of beauty.  Take a solid crochet square (similar to a granny square), add a gorgeous yarn and you’ve got one amazing bag.  Perfect for…well.. just about anything!

A little side note: If you’ve been with me for a bit, you might remember we originally made the Boho Boss Bag as a crochet along and the pattern was spread over multiple posts. Now we’re bringing the entire bag into one, glorious post to make it easier for you to crochet! Hope you love this latest rendition of a Crochet 365 Knit Too classic!

The Boho Boss bag is the unsung hero of my granny square style bags. A little simpler than the oh so popular Sweet Summer Granny Square Bag and the Daisy Granny Square Bag, this little gem is beautiful in its simplicity.

It is also a very versatile pattern for three reasons: yarn, handle options, and square layout. Let me explain.

I chose a beautiful Noro Silk Garden yarn for my original granny square bag. Noro brand yarn is a high end yarn found in many local yarn stores and I’m pretty much in love with it. I love Noro Silk Garden for its mix of silk, mohair and wool and the gorgeous color ways. They are always so vibrant and flow nicely into one another.

Yarn color changes often in the Noro line, so the exact yarn I used in my bag is likely no longer available. Not to worry though, because you can certainly find a pleasing Noro color way for a bag like this. Just pick up enough in the dye lot to make your bag.

However.. maybe you don’t want to use Noro yarn. It might be out of your budget or maybe you’re just not as in love with it as I am. No worries. Just substitute another worsted weight yarn. You could find another variegated yarn with a contrast but this bag would also look lovely in a solid color yarn as well.

For this project I used purchased leather handles that I sewed on to the bag. I purchased these 23.6″ leather handles by Wento off Amazon on a whim and they are a great match!  They also sell the same handles in many other colors, so you’ll be sure to find the perfect pair for your bag.

If you’d rather crochet the handles yourself, you can just follow the finishing instructions for the Sunflower Crochet Bag or the Daisy Mae Bag instead.

Finally.. the square layout. Each of my granny square style bags feature a different bag layout. You can substitute squares and interchange layouts for different looks. Perhaps you’d rather use a solid granny square in the Daisy bag layout.

You can do that! Just be aware that because the squares are different sizes, your finished bag may be smaller or larger. I love the versatility of swapping out squares in these bags!

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Boho Boss Crochet Granny Square Bag

Here is what you will need:

• US G6/4 mm crochet hook (these are my absolute favorite hooks I recommend to everyone!)
• 4 Skeins Noro Silk Garden (I used col 84)and 1 Skein of an accent Noro Silk Garden yarn (I used col 188)
• Purse Handles.  I used these 23.6″ leather handles by Wento that I purchased on Amazon in Wine color
• Large Button (approximately 1-1/4″) to close bag, if desired.
• Tapestry needle and scissors

NOTE:  Lining and a closure for the purse is optional.  Purse can be used without a lining and/or closure.  A lining requires use of a sewing machine, 1/2-3/4  yard of fabric and fusible interfacing.

Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern: Crochet Abbreviations, US to UK Crochet Conversion Chart.  Find links to stitches on the “Tutorial” menu: Getting Started will show basic stitches used in many patterns and Crochet Stitch Dictionary shows our growing collection of crochet stitch tutorials.  I really like to use the invisible seamless join when finishing pieces that get sewn together (in this project this is an optional step).

Granny Square Bag Size:

The finished bag is 17” wide by 14.5” tall (including handles it is 22″ tall).

Solid Granny Squares (make 24):

Note: Each finished square is approximately 4.25” in diameter.  If your square turns out larger, go down a hook size.  A larger square will result in a larger bag and may require additional yarn.  The pattern will still turn out nicely if worked in a slightly larger or smaller size (you just might need to adjust the amount of yarn you use).

With Main Color yarn, ch 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring. (Note: if you find this is too tight to work in, you may chain 5 instead)

R1: Ch 3 (counts as 1^stdc here and throughout), then work all of the following into the ring: 2dc, ch 2, *3dc, ch2, repeat from * two more times. Join with a slip stitch at the top of the starting chain.

R2:  Ch 3, dc in next 2 st, in corner work (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc), dc in next 3 st, *in corner, work (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc), dc in next 3 st.  Repeat from * one more time.  In last corner, work (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc).  Join to top of starting chain.

R3:  Ch 3, dc in next 4 st, in corner work (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc), dc in next 7 st, *in corner, work (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc), dc in next 7 st.  Repeat from * one more time.  In last corner, work (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc).  Dc in last 2 st of row.  Join to top of starting chain.

R4:  Ch 3, dc in next 6 st, in corner work (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc), dc in next 11 st, *in corner, work (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc), dc in next 11 st.  Repeat from * one more time.  In last corner, work (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc).  Dc in last 4 st of row.  Join to top of starting chain.

Fasten off.  I like to use an invisible seamless join

Join the Granny Squares

Once the solid granny squares are complete, the real fun begins and your granny square bag starts to take shape!

I don’t know why, but I find the process of joining these squares together to be immensely satisfying.  It’s the step where a stack of squares actually turn into something and I can finally get a taste for how the whole bag is going to come together.

If you are using Noro Silk Garden yarn, you will notice that there can be drastic differences in colors from square to square. If you are using a different yarn, this may or may not be the same for you.

If you DO have squares with different shades of color, be mindful of this and think about how the squares will look in your finished bag.  In my bag, for instance, I really liked the pink and red hues and wasn’t as crazy about the darker toned greens and tans.  So you’ll notice that I put those squares on the bottom of the bag where they are not as prominently displayed.

Crochet Squares Together Overview

The squares are joined by single crochet.  Review the diagram first. Then follow the instructions for how to single crochet the squares together.  This diagram shows how the squares are connected in the finished bag, oriented in such a way that you can “envision” the finished bag with handles.

If we rotate the above diagram, it is easier to see square placement by row.  Find a large work space and lay out your squares to resemble the square layout.  

If you’d like the directions for crocheting this bag together including a large image of the above diagram PLUS a rotated diagram to make this step easier, be sure to head to The Vault.  The Vault is a password protected library of all sorts of free goodies JUST for my newsletter subscribers!

If you are already a newsletter subscriber, be sure to check your inbox.  The current password is included the bottom of every email.

To join crochet squares together, you will be single crocheting the squares together.  First by crocheting all the rows.  Then crocheting all the columns.  Finally you will fold the piece together and crochet the squares that make up the sides of the bag.

Start each row with a standing single crochet and then crochet the squares together working through the back loops only. 

Crochet The Squares Together:

Single crochet the squares together, following the diagram and working through the back loops only. 

First assemble the rows across. Working with 2 squares at a time, hold the squares with the right sides facing out. Then single crochet in the back loops of both squares.

When you come to the end of those 2 squares, pick up the next 2 squares and continue single crocheting.  Continue across until all the squares for those 2 rows are joined. This will leave the sides loose for now.

Continue to single crochet the next row, square by square to the 2 rows you just completed.  Continue on to attach all the rows

When you are finished, lay out the squares and make sure they still form the same pattern as the diagram.  It is surprisingly easy to mess up this step and get a block in the wrong row. So take a moment to make sure every square is where it should be and rip out and correct if you’ve made a mistake.

Then repeat the process to crochet the columns together.  I find stitch markers can help hold the squares together in this step.

Finally look at the first diagram and follow the arrows to crochet the sides of the bag together.  The dotted lines represent the two squares that fold in half on the sides of the finished bag.

I found it easiest to pin those pieces together (or fasten with stitch holders), and refer to the diagram a few times to make sure I was crocheting the appropriate squares together.

Here is the finished bag to show the squares sewn together.  Note that on each side, the top 2 squares form a “M” shape.  The top edges of these squares (that form the “M”) are not crocheted together.  This will enable you to open the finished bag easily.

Crochet Bag Finishing

We’re in the home stretch! Next we’ll work the edging, the button loop, the lining and sew on the handles!

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Crochet the Top Edging of the Bag

The edging is worked over the open top half of the 4 squares at the top of the bag.  If you look at the photo above, you will see that there are 2 squares at the top of the bag on both the front side and two on the back side.  The top half of those squares (in a ‘M’ shape on each side) form the opening of the bag. The edging is worked in single crochet all along this opening.

I like to think of these squares as having peaks and valleys.  The peaks are the points at the top of the bag (where the handles will be joined later).  The valleys are the low points where the squares join the rest of the bag.  There are valleys on each side of the bag, one in the center front and one in the back.  

You will be single crocheting along this edge.  When you come to a valley, single crochet 2 stitches together, working part of a stitch on each square that meets up there.  When you come to a peak, work 3 single crochet in the top corner.

Decide which side of the bag you would like to be the front of the bag.  Using the same contrasting yarn used for joining the squares together, start by joining with a single crochet a few stitches before a side valley on the back side of the bag.  When you come to the low point on the side, single crochet 2 together.  

Then continue to single crochet along the edge of the next square (now on the front of the bag) until you come to the peak.  Work 3 single crochet in the peak.  Continue to single crochet down the rest of that square until you come to the center front valley and single crochet 2 together.

Continue to work up and down the peaks and valleys until you come to the center back valley.  Here is where the button loop is worked.  Stop one stitch before the valley.  Instead of single crocheting 2 together, you will work the loop for the button.

I like to crochet the loop for the button first and then when I am done working the edging, I go back and actually sew the button in place.  That way if I’ve crocheted tighter or looser than I planned, it gives me the option of repositioning the button not a more appropriate spot.

More Granny Square Bag Patterns

If you love the Boho Boss Granny Square Bag pattern, you might also like to check out these darling patterns:

Crochet the Loop for the Button

One stitch before that center back valley, chain enough stitches to go around the button.  I chained about 20 chains.  Then slip stitch to the 1st chain.  This makes a loop.  Take a few minutes to see if this loop will fit over the button that will be sewn on the front.

Now reinforce that loop by working several single crochet stitches over the chain you just worked.  To do this, continue past the slip stitch you just made (as though you were working in a circle) and work single crochets around the chain loop until you get all the way around the chain to the beginning of the loop again.  I worked about 25 single crochets into the loop.  

When the loop is covered in single crochets you are back in position to finish the edging on the rest of the bag.  Skip 2 stitches at the bottom valley (this is instead of crocheting them together).  Then continue single crocheting along the rest of the bag as previously described.  At the end of the row, slip stitch to the first stitch and fasten off.

Sew on the Button

Lay the bag flat with the back facing down.  Position the button on the front so that the loop will fit nicely over the button .  Once satisfied with the position of the button, using sewing needle and thread to sew the button in place.

Optional:  Sew a Lining

Take your crochet bag finishing up a notch and sew a lining.  If you are making a lining, I suggest waiting to sew the handles on until after you’ve made and sewn in the lining. I prefer to sew the handles right through the crochet AND lining.  However you could just sew the handles on to the bag itself.

Here is What You Will Need For the Lining

• 1/2 yard of fabric (this is enough to do single layer of fabric lining plus pocket)
• 1-1/4 yard of fusible woven interfacing (Pellon Shapeflex SF101)

How to Make Lining Pattern

1. Tape together 4 sheets of 8.5 x 11 paper or lay out enough paper to trace out your purse.
2. Lay purse on paper and use a pencil to trace around purse.  
3. When you take the purse off the piece of paper you have something that looks like the above photo.  NOW you need to “fix” the drawing before cutting it out to use as a pattern.  First, fold the paper in half so that the fold is along the center of the bag top to bottom.  Draw a 2nd line about 1/2 inch from the original line  This new line is going to be the cutting line for the pattern.  
4. Cut out the paper pattern.  Unfold the paper and both sides will match in size.  Don’t worry about any imperfections (it is ok if the 1/2 inch marking on the opposite side doesn’t exactly line up).  You are creating a custom pattern to your own purse.

Prepare Fabric

Iron fabric.  Then following manufacturer instructions, iron on the interfacing.  I find it is easiest to do this prior to cutting out the bag.  If you want to conserve interfacing, you might want to cut out all the pieces of the bag and pocket out of fabric and then the same pieces out of interfacing and fuse them afterward.

Lay pattern on a double thickness of fabric, pin and cut out two purse pieces (a front and a back)

From remaining fabric, cut (2) 8″ x 7″ squares for the pocket, if desired. (I personally like having an inside pocket to hold my cell phone.) Interfacing should be on all 4 pieces: both the front and back of the bag as well as both sides of the pocket.

Sew the Pocket

Using a 1/2″ seam allowance, pin right sides of pocket together.  Sew the pocket together on 3 sides, starting with a short side, working across a long side and then down the other short side.  Leave the bottom open.  Clip corners, turn pocket and iron flat.  Top stitch about 1/8″ away from the top folded edge, if desired.  

Then center the pocket on one of the bag sides, lining up the unfinished edge with the bottom edge of the bag and pin.  The unfinished edge of the pocket will be encased in the lining seam when you sew the front and back of the lining together.  Sew the 3 sides of the pocket down.

Sew the Sides and Bottom of the Lining

Put right sides of bag together and sew the sides and bottom, using a 5/8″ seam allowance.  (Yes, I do know that you allowed for only 1/2″ extra in your pattern; trust me, you need to sew at 5/8″ for the lining to fit properly inside).  Sew the sides and bottom of the bag, encasing the bottom of the pocket into the bottom seam.  Leave the top edges open (just like the crochet bag).

I like to cut close to the seam edge so it lays better in the finished bag.  Next, use an iron and fold down the top seam allowances on the open edge of your bag lining to the wrong side, pressing as you go.

Pin the lining inside the crochet bag and carefully hand sew into place. The wrong side of the lining will be against the wrong side of the crochet bag.

Sewing on The Handles

The final step is to sew on the handles. I used these 23.6″ leather handles by Wento that come with pre-punched holes for sewing. I used strong thread, doubled over a few times and a sewing needle to carefully go through the holes in the leather handles to secure it on to the crochet bag.

If you lined your bag, work through all the layers.  Take your time and be patient.  It can be a bit tricky to get the needle through the pre-punched holes in the leather, but it is worth the little bit of extra effort. If you find it hard to work the needle through, a pair of pliers can help to grip the needle.

Ta Da!  Your Boho Boss Crochet Granny Square Bag is done!

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